Where comfort
meets care

The heart of a century home's heat. A modern condensing boiler warms water instead of air — that's the even, silent warmth old-house owners love, at up to 95% efficiency instead of the 60–70% an original boiler manages.

Hot water loops from the boiler through the rads on every floor and returns to be reheated. Good rads are worth keeping — they don't blow dust around and they heat plaster-and-brick homes better than retrofitted ducts ever will.

Slim wall units upstairs deliver the cooling a century home never had — no ducts, no tearing open plaster. A cold-climate multi-zone system also carries most of the heating season at electric efficiency.

One quiet outdoor unit runs up to five indoor heads through slim refrigerant lines — the small pipes snake through walls where ducts can't. Placement matters on tight century lots; we handle clearances.

This pencil-thin insulated line is the whole reason ductless works in old homes: it moves heating and cooling through a 3-inch wall opening instead of a bulkhead full of ductwork.

Your basement workhorse. A modern two-stage furnace runs longer and quieter at a lower burn, which evens out temperatures and cuts gas use 15–30% versus the 20-year-old unit most bungalows still run.

1950s ducts were sized for 1950s equipment. Undersized trunks choke airflow — the #1 reason bungalow bedrooms run hot and cold. We measure static pressure and fix the bottlenecks before upsizing equipment.

Air comes back to the furnace through the return, passing the filter that protects both the equipment and your lungs. A right-sized filter rack beats the 1-inch builder slot for airflow and air quality.

The outdoor half of central air. Sizing is everything on a bungalow — an oversized unit short-cycles and leaves the house clammy; a right-sized one runs steady and wrings the humidity out.

The upstairs bedrooms ductwork physics can't reach get their own slim unit — cool in July, warm in January, controlled from the room itself. The single highest-comfort dollar in a storey-and-a-half.

The outdoor unit that heats AND cools. Variable-speed compressors run long and low — exactly the gentle, continuous airflow a split-level needs to stop the family room from freezing while bedrooms overheat.

Inside, a variable-speed blower keeps air moving between the half-levels almost silently instead of blasting on and off. That constant gentle mixing is what actually equalizes a sidesplit.

Supply runs in a sidesplit take long, twisty paths to the far levels — every elbow steals airflow. Balancing dampers and sealed joints recover comfort you already paid for.

Most sidesplits pull almost all their return air from one hallway — so lower levels get supply air but no circulation. Adding a return path down low is a small job with an outsized comfort payoff.

A single hall thermostat is guessing at four different levels. A smart stat with remote sensors averages the rooms you actually live in — or zoning splits the house into independently controlled areas.

The mechanical-room pair: furnace below, cooling/heat-pump coil above. Builder-grade units commonly tap out around years 12–15 — replacing both together costs meaningfully less than two separate installs.

Outside, the heat pump carries spring, fall, and most of winter at electric efficiency; the gas furnace takes only the deep-freeze nights. Lowest operating cost for a tight modern home — and it unlocks up to $7,500 in rebates.

Supply air climbs these in-wall risers to the second floor. Upstairs-too-hot summers usually trace back here — balancing dampers set for the season fix more than most people expect.

Floored over an unheated garage with duct runs at their farthest point, the bonus room runs hot and cold no matter the thermostat. A dedicated ductless head is the honest fix.

In a hybrid home the thermostat is the brain deciding when the heat pump runs and when gas takes over — set to fuel prices, not guesswork. We configure the switchover point so it actually saves money.

Townhome furnaces live in tight closets, so physical size and service clearance drive the choice. Compact high-efficiency units are built for exactly this — full output, small footprint.

Regular condensers blow air up; side-discharge units blow it sideways from a slim cabinet that tucks against a wall — quieter, smaller, and friendlier to noise bylaws and condo boards.

All three floors are fed from one vertical chase — short, efficient runs are a townhome advantage. Keeping the chase balanced floor-to-floor is what keeps the third storey livable in July.

Your neighbours' homes insulate two of your walls for free — townhomes need noticeably less heating and cooling per square foot. Sizing calculations should reflect that, not a detached-home rule of thumb.

Outdoor unit placement, noise specs, clearances — many complexes need sign-off before an install. We prepare the spec sheets and handle the paperwork so approval isn't your problem.

Off oil or propane, this is the single biggest bill cut in HVAC — electric heat at 2–3x the efficiency of resistance, working to around -30°C. Income-qualified oil-heated homes can get up to $25,000 through OHPA to make the switch.

In a hybrid rural setup the propane furnace only fires on the coldest nights or during outages — resilience without paying propane prices all winter. Old oil tanks are decommissioned safely.

With no gas line at the road, fuel arrives by truck and lives in this tank. Shrinking how much of the winter it has to cover is exactly what the heat pump does — most rural hybrids cut delivered-fuel use by more than half.

Well water is hard on tanks — minerals scale up elements and cut lifespan. Out here we spec water heaters (and softening) for the water you actually have, not city assumptions.

Workshops and barns usually have no heat at all. A single ductless head turns an outbuilding into year-round usable space without running new fuel lines across the property.